September 05, 2025

Lace is featured on the Métropolis jacket for a bold back-to-school look

Lace is one of my favorite fabrics. It gives a precious touch to the garment, a very couture look, whatever the pattern: a simple little tank top transforms into a "masterpiece" once sewn in beautiful lace. The embroidered effect, the openwork and the "faux plain" look of monochrome lace never go out of style.

While working on the presentation wardrobe for the Fauve Parade back-to-school capsule , I was in a daring mood... The navy/white/red color range and the "uniform" inspiration of this mini collection gave me an idea: to revisit our superb Métropolis jacket in an ultra-original version in Coquillage lace .

After winning over fans with its chic wool and jacquard versions, the Métropolis jacket has been given a new look in lace. The result? A delicate, feminine piece that's right on trend with the flamboyant red of the fall season.

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I sew the Metropolis lace jacket

Métropolis is a structured jacket full of character , designed to twist your wardrobe. Inspired by the hunter jackets popularized by Chanel, which combine a pure cut with an androgynous influence, it adopts certain codes:

A trompe-l'oeil double-breasted design for a tailored look without the rigidity
The absence of a collar distinguishes it from classic tailored jackets and contributes to the modernity of this type of cut.
Carefully designed construction lines with princess cuts that flatter the figure and conceal discreet pockets
A set of optional strips to highlight the cutouts and add a graphic touch
Its volume is supported but not fitted, which makes it perfect with jeans as well as high-waisted trousers . With the Coquillage lace, it transforms into a sophisticated piece with an extra touch of glamour , enough to completely reinterpret this timeless wardrobe staple.

Why Shell lace?

This lace is a real gem:

Entirely embroidered with shell motifs , it provides a delicate and original relief.
Flexible and pleasant to sew , it remains easy to work with because it does not deform.
Without elasticity , it offers a perfect fit for jackets, blouses or dresses.

Sewing tip: Be careful because the shell motifs are embroidered horizontally. But I chose to sew the shells vertically on garments sewn from this fabric, and Metropolis is no exception. You'll therefore need to remember to rotate your fabric to respect the direction of the design.
What does this mean for you? For all projects where the recommended length is less than or equal to 140 cm, this does not change anything. However, if your projects use more than 140 cm of fabric, you will need to place your pieces by "spreading" them from this limit height of 140 cm. The cutting plan will therefore need to be reviewed.

Below I provide you with the reworked cutting plans for the Metropolis jacket pattern , but it is impossible for us to give you the necessary consumption for each pattern and each size range. We recommend that you place your pieces as indicated (max 140 cm high) and see how much your placement consumes in width: this is the measurement that will be ordered for your fabric.

How to sew your lace Metropolis?

The sewing steps remain the same as those described in your pattern brochure and the video step-by-step. However, there are a few changes to be expected.

Since the lace is openwork, it is advisable to provide a lining . This is a good thing, the Métropolis jacket is a lined jacket pattern, and everything is well explained in the tutorial. To keep the lightness of the model, opt for a fabric in the same color as the shell lace. At Maison Fauve, we offer a matching cotton voile in several perfect colors: Sulfide Yellow, Ecru, Romance Rose or Passion Red .
I envisioned my lace jacket as a cardigan or vest, so the fact that the lining isn't slippery isn't a problem. But if you want to wear your version over a sweater or long-sleeved garment, you'll need (at least for the sleeves) to choose a slippery lining like our cupro lining fabrics.
Avoid iron-on lace : it will show through. I didn't iron anything on this version, because the Coquillage lace has a certain structure and marks well with an iron. So I have very clean lines on my garment.
On the other hand, I skipped the decorative strips: without iron-on they deform and warp. To stabilize the bottom of the jacket, if you are worried about it moving or not staying in place, fix it with hand stitches that blend in with the existing seam lines.
We keep the shoulder pads but skip the cigarette ends : one of the signatures of the Metropolis jacket pattern is its impeccable shoulder line. The presence of shoulder pads is highly recommended for a perfect fit. The cigarette end of the sleeve also helps to obtain a sleeve with well-defined contours. Unfortunately, it will be transparent due to the lace openings (and we don't want impromptu wadding on our little hand-sewn jewel).
For the shoulder pads, there is a solution: we made a small "bag" in the lining fabric, to the template of the shoulder pad, and slipped them inside. The assembly of the shoulder pads places them between the main fabric and the lining, this camouflages them and we do not see them through the lace. The assembly remains the same, the shoulder pad is just covered with its small cotton voile bag.

Why do we love it?

Because it perfectly embodies Fauve elegance , with this creative twist that transforms a classic into a unique couture piece . For the shoot, I had fun combining in the same outfit my new Rouge Passion lace jacket, the blouse version of the Cuba Libre pattern in the Lunares poplin with navy polka dots, and the Grand Bain shorts in tartan tweed.

Lace + polka dots + checks is a most surprising mix. Why does it work? Because the color range is coherent and complements each of the items in my outfit! Fashion is fun, and I'll of course be able to separate my sewing for everyday use. But it's fun to be daring!