August 03, 2021

Harlequin sequin, the Couture inspiration that awakens the allure!

There are silhouettes on the runways that transcend the question of "Is it wearable?" to land directly in the "This garment is a dream" box.

And I will introduce you to one of the colorful figures that has graced the catwalk over the years and seasons: the Harlequin. The world of the circus is a recurring source of inspiration for designers, from the exuberance of Alexander McQueen or Moschino to the more subdued dreaminess of the house of Dior.

Moschino SS20

McQueen for Givenchy

Dior AH07

Dior SS19

The harlequin of the great houses is full of creativity: the play of diamonds, the contrasts of colors, the materials and the embroidery are spectacular and it is sometimes complicated to extract the costume to appropriate this look.

So when I saw this fabric at Mondial Tissus , I had a flash, a little fashion shock. This pattern, these sequins, it could have been definitely "too much", if the soft, pastel colors had not calmed things down. I saw it as a way to play too and inject a little couture flamboyance into my outfit.

Sewing this fabric was a bit of a headache and a first for me with sequins. The cutting and sewing were not particularly difficult in themselves but it was impossible to easily transfer notches or indications, the patterns require checking the matches and I finished all the edges of my pieces with a bias: overlocker prohibited, with raw edges I am too afraid that the sequins will come unstitching in the long run, and above all… it scratches if you don't finish the edges properly ;) My facing is not in this fabric but in crepe de chine, and ironed as recommended by the pattern. I had ordered this fabric for an Ispahan jacket (it would have been GREAT) but it didn't seem suitable to me, especially because the mesh under the sequins is loose and would have revealed a lining.

So I chose the easy way (yes yes it has its good points sometimes hihihi!) and I sewed a Palma top with this gem: easy, quick, faced with a fabric that I don't know well I preferred not to have to manage complex sewing steps. And I am delighted with my choice!