November 29, 2017
Rocaille, what if it was a dress?!
Hello, here I am today to offer you the tutorial for assembling your Rocaille blouse . I took advantage of the creation of this step-by-step tutorial to sew a dress version for my youngest (and already a beautiful story is being created between us...). 
Rocaille presenting the possibility of choosing between 2 types of low front flaps, there will be the 2 possibilities illustrated and therefore 2 fabric models (so don't be surprised, crazy patterns have not been embedded by chance ;) ). The printed fabric that you can see in the article presenting the pattern comes from Aniline. 
This dress version is like a no-brainer, as it is so easy to implement and for a result that I really like. I sewed my dress in a very very light wool that is extremely pleasant to wear (it comes from a small haberdashery near my home). The iced brown color is not easy to reproduce, but the tight weave on the right side brings a very beautiful shimmer (yes, my dress shimmers!) I chose small faceted gold buttons from Pretty mercerie, and I did the stitching of the hems of my bottom flaps and gold thread (it's seriously bling around here). I wear it loose or belted. 
To give my outfit a little pep, I chose my pretty cobalt pompom earrings and my love necklace from my friend Ilabella . I hope this tutorial will take the drama out of making your Rocaille blouse, and that this new version will inspire you to create a nice variation based on my new pattern. It's time to get to work, here is THE ROCAILLE STEP BY STEP: for the dress version, I simply extended 30 cm from the side line (and you join the middle front and middle back perpendicularly). 
1.sew the bust darts: transfer your dart outline using chalk or an erasable pen, superimpose your notches right side against right side to fold and create your dart and sew along the outline. On the tip of the dart, finish with ¾ stitches on your outline so as not to mark your dart excessively and make your seam "die". 
2. the neckline slit: overlock the edge of your neckline piece. Place your neckline (which you will have taken care to iron on) right side against right side on your front bust, and sew along the outline of the slit (at the bottom of the slit, with the needle planted, lift the foot and pivot your work 90 degrees, sew on 2/3 stitches, turn 90 degrees and go back up). Cut between your sewing lines, turn your neckline over to flatten it well on the inside and iron. 
3. front flap: VERSION A: overlock the bottom of your facing. Place your previously heat-sealed facing right side against right side on your bottom flap and assemble. Notch your curves, and turn your facing inside out, iron well (if you wish, topstitch on the right side along the bottom of the bottom flap, this will stabilize your facing and can be decorative). Make the buttonhole. Attach your bottom flap to your front bust WRONG SIDE against RIGHT SIDE by sewing in the seam allowance. 
VERSION B: Hem the bottom of your bib B pieces, place your bibs wrong side up on the right side of the front bust, and secure with a seam inside the seam allowance. 
4. Hem your back flap. Sew your back dart: stitch along the mark, then stop sewing, the rest of the fold is free. Iron to form your box pleat. Place your back flap WRONG SIDE against RIGHT SIDE of the back bust, and sew in the seam allowance to secure your pieces together. 
5.Assemble right sides together your front and back busts by the shoulders and sides. Overlock and iron well. 
6. the collar: iron on your collar pieces, assemble them right side to right side, leaving the bottom of the collar open. Notch the curves, trim your corners and turn your collar right side out. 
Place your collar edge to edge and right side against right side on your neckline, using the assembly notches, and sew. The right portion sticks out a little (it will support the button) and the left portion will be directly above the neckline. Turn your collar over, and tuck your seam allowances inside the collar, then pin well all around the collar to sandwich your neckline in your collar with the seam allowances regularly tucked in and flattened. This second assembly seam will be on the right side and outside of your collar, so take care with your work. Make the buttonhole. 
7. Sleeves: Close your sleeves and overlock all along your seam. If you want to add the shoulder tab: make your tab by assembling 2 pieces right side against right side, notch your curves and turn over to the right side with a bias binding. Make the buttonhole and for a prettier finish, topstitch your piece. 
When assembling your sleeve, you insert your tab between the sleeve and the armhole at the shoulder. The tab pattern is the same for all sizes, secure with pins at the desired location, you will eliminate the excess length after assembling the sleeve. Assemble your sleeve on your armhole, right side against right side (you slide your sleeve into the armhole and pin through the "hole" of the armhole and make sure the underarm seams, the sleeve head notch with the shoulder seam, and your front and back notches match up. Once these points are pinned, you pin all around, absorbing a little of the excess (if necessary, you can gather your sleeve head a little with a gathering thread before pinning to make it easier to manage the excess). 
8. the finishing touches: hem the bottom of the sleeves and the bottom of your blouse. Choose and sew your most beautiful buttons….so, isn’t life beautiful! I’ll see you soon for my CSF article (yes I know I’m late….) 
Rocaille presenting the possibility of choosing between 2 types of low front flaps, there will be the 2 possibilities illustrated and therefore 2 fabric models (so don't be surprised, crazy patterns have not been embedded by chance ;) ). The printed fabric that you can see in the article presenting the pattern comes from Aniline. This dress version is like a no-brainer, as it is so easy to implement and for a result that I really like. I sewed my dress in a very very light wool that is extremely pleasant to wear (it comes from a small haberdashery near my home). The iced brown color is not easy to reproduce, but the tight weave on the right side brings a very beautiful shimmer (yes, my dress shimmers!) I chose small faceted gold buttons from Pretty mercerie, and I did the stitching of the hems of my bottom flaps and gold thread (it's seriously bling around here). I wear it loose or belted. To give my outfit a little pep, I chose my pretty cobalt pompom earrings and my love necklace from my friend Ilabella . I hope this tutorial will take the drama out of making your Rocaille blouse, and that this new version will inspire you to create a nice variation based on my new pattern. It's time to get to work, here is THE ROCAILLE STEP BY STEP: for the dress version, I simply extended 30 cm from the side line (and you join the middle front and middle back perpendicularly). 1.sew the bust darts: transfer your dart outline using chalk or an erasable pen, superimpose your notches right side against right side to fold and create your dart and sew along the outline. On the tip of the dart, finish with ¾ stitches on your outline so as not to mark your dart excessively and make your seam "die". 2. the neckline slit: overlock the edge of your neckline piece. Place your neckline (which you will have taken care to iron on) right side against right side on your front bust, and sew along the outline of the slit (at the bottom of the slit, with the needle planted, lift the foot and pivot your work 90 degrees, sew on 2/3 stitches, turn 90 degrees and go back up). Cut between your sewing lines, turn your neckline over to flatten it well on the inside and iron. 3. front flap: VERSION A: overlock the bottom of your facing. Place your previously heat-sealed facing right side against right side on your bottom flap and assemble. Notch your curves, and turn your facing inside out, iron well (if you wish, topstitch on the right side along the bottom of the bottom flap, this will stabilize your facing and can be decorative). Make the buttonhole. Attach your bottom flap to your front bust WRONG SIDE against RIGHT SIDE by sewing in the seam allowance. VERSION B: Hem the bottom of your bib B pieces, place your bibs wrong side up on the right side of the front bust, and secure with a seam inside the seam allowance. 4. Hem your back flap. Sew your back dart: stitch along the mark, then stop sewing, the rest of the fold is free. Iron to form your box pleat. Place your back flap WRONG SIDE against RIGHT SIDE of the back bust, and sew in the seam allowance to secure your pieces together. 5.Assemble right sides together your front and back busts by the shoulders and sides. Overlock and iron well. 6. the collar: iron on your collar pieces, assemble them right side to right side, leaving the bottom of the collar open. Notch the curves, trim your corners and turn your collar right side out. Place your collar edge to edge and right side against right side on your neckline, using the assembly notches, and sew. The right portion sticks out a little (it will support the button) and the left portion will be directly above the neckline. Turn your collar over, and tuck your seam allowances inside the collar, then pin well all around the collar to sandwich your neckline in your collar with the seam allowances regularly tucked in and flattened. This second assembly seam will be on the right side and outside of your collar, so take care with your work. Make the buttonhole. 7. Sleeves: Close your sleeves and overlock all along your seam. If you want to add the shoulder tab: make your tab by assembling 2 pieces right side against right side, notch your curves and turn over to the right side with a bias binding. Make the buttonhole and for a prettier finish, topstitch your piece. When assembling your sleeve, you insert your tab between the sleeve and the armhole at the shoulder. The tab pattern is the same for all sizes, secure with pins at the desired location, you will eliminate the excess length after assembling the sleeve. Assemble your sleeve on your armhole, right side against right side (you slide your sleeve into the armhole and pin through the "hole" of the armhole and make sure the underarm seams, the sleeve head notch with the shoulder seam, and your front and back notches match up. Once these points are pinned, you pin all around, absorbing a little of the excess (if necessary, you can gather your sleeve head a little with a gathering thread before pinning to make it easier to manage the excess). 8. the finishing touches: hem the bottom of the sleeves and the bottom of your blouse. Choose and sew your most beautiful buttons….so, isn’t life beautiful! I’ll see you soon for my CSF article (yes I know I’m late….)
