Adapting patterns for large and small busts

Maison Fauve patterns are graded and made for a B cup. So you may need to deepen or limit the depth of the bust dart in order to have a pattern that is well adapted to your body shape. If you have an A cup bust, or a D cup and above, you will probably need to make these adjustments. Likewise if on your toile you are adjusted to the bust but your creation gapes on the armholes and in the back.

For large breasts:

Measure your bust circumference at the base of the chest and not at the fullest part of the chest.

Choose the grading size corresponding to this measurement in the pattern grading table. Then determine the difference in value in this size between your actual bust measurement and that indicated in the table. We will call this measurement A. Your pattern being a half bust, it will be half of this value that will have to be added to the pattern, i.e. A/2.

The seam allowance for Maison fauve patterns is generally 1 cm. Subtract this value from the dotted armhole perimeter of the diagram). Draw a line (in pink) from the edge of the dart towards the point, and extend this line by value A. Connect the armhole notch to the end of the pink line (blue line) and then draw a vertical line to the bottom of the pattern (it will therefore be parallel to the center front). Cut out your pattern according to the pink and blue lines.

Move away from the distance A/2 in the blue area of ​​the diagram.

Then trace the side line, the bottom of the garment, and the edge of your dart (green line).

For small breasts:

the lines are identical, but instead of widening, you subtract the value A which will again be the difference between your chest measurement and the chest measurement recommended by the pattern. To do this, bring your cutting lines closer together so that they overlap instead of spreading apart.

Sew a canvas with this new outline to validate or slightly adjust the depth or length of the dart.

Your boss is ready, well done!