February 27, 2019

Life in red...the Sybil blouse and its tutorial

Good morning!

The new collection having gone into grading, I have a little time to offer you a new assembly tutorial: the Sybil pattern blouse and yoke version. The yoke version is the most delicate, already in the preparation because there are many curves and you will have to be precise when cutting and interfacing your yokes.

For this version, I chose a fabric from Pretty mercerie . It has a very nice print, the color is bright and the slightly crumpled effect is really pretty. On the other hand, it is synthetic and marks very little with the iron, and ironing it requires delicacy, which complicated the thermo-adhesive interfacing a little. It is also a thin fabric that slips a little, so it is recommended for simple projects or if you are already experienced with your model.

sybil blouse sewing pattern maison fauve
sybil blouse sewing pattern maison fauve

I chose to make you the tutorial on this variation of the pattern because I received several messages telling me about difficulties when assembling the fabric bust/lining bust. It is important to understand that this type of "inlay" yoke assembly requires assembling rounded edges that will clash during pinning to fit perfectly into place when you turn your work right side out. It is the precise and error-free assembly of your fabric bust that will allow you to perfectly superimpose it with the lining. And the dimensions are identical, so be careful if it does not match well between the fabric and the lining, it is because you have a small prior failure (slight modification of the dimension of the fabric by ironing, small offset when sewing the yokes and these few mm are reflected in the total height of the bust...). The Maison Fauve patterns are digitalized and graded by a pattern maker under Lectra, which means in particular that the dimensions of the different pieces and the concordance of the assembly notches are checked by computer. And the tests are done upon return from the grading, thus revalidating the pattern again ;)

Come on, get out your pins and scissors, let's go!

Making the chest clips on the front bust pieces.

Pin after matching the assembly notches. Feel free to trace the sewing area with tailor's chalk or an erasable marker like Pilot Frixion (can be ironed off!!!) or you can baste it with a large stitch, sew from the edge of the garment and finish the tip of your dart by dying along the line on the last 2 stitches. Iron your darts down. You will do the same for the bust darts on the lining.

Bust and yoke assembly : your pattern has markings so you don't make a mistake when assembling the yokes on the bust . In fact, when assembling these pieces, the curves clash; it is when you unfold the pieces after sewing that the curves are defined.

For the left front bust: pin the bust and the yoke right sides together, matching the notches A. Sew, turn inside out and press well.

For the right front bust: pin the bust and the yoke right sides together, matching the D notches. Sew, turn inside out and press well.

For the back bust: pin the bust and the yoke right sides together, matching the notches E. Sew, turn inside out and press well.

Assembling the bust : Assemble the right and left front bust pieces right sides together and the back bust piece by the shoulders.

Place the bust right side against right side on the lining and pin all around the neckline: from the bottom of the right front piece, up along the neckline, along the back neckline and back down on the left front piece. Use the notches as guides (C for the right front, B for the left front and the notch in the middle of the back at the fold for the back). Stop at the left neckline without going down the left side. Notch the tip of your cutouts and all your curves and reduce your seam allowances. Turn your work right side out. Iron to define your curves and the angle of the right bust.

NB: if you want to close your blouse with small ties, you will need to position them at this stage, sandwiching them between the edge of the lining and the fabric of the right front).

The sides :
To make your work easier, you can first stabilize the fabric/lining assembly by securing them with a stitch in the seam allowance. Pin your sides right side against right side by sandwiching the side of the right front between the back side and the edge of the left front, so when you turn it will be the right front that crosses in front of the left front. Overlock your side seams.

Iron your work well so that your front and back necklines are well defined. You will get your blouse with the right side of the lining that will be against your body and the right side of the fabric that will be visible.

Pin the bottom of your bust pieces on the right side, and sew at 0.5 cm (i.e. in the seam allowance): the aim is to secure them before assembling them with the skirt part, this will make this step easier for you.

The “skirt” part : your skirt piece is presented as a “skirt” for the blouse, i.e. the lower part of your blouse, or as a “skirt” for the dress.

Skirt/bust assembly : start by gathering the top of your skirt. You will sew 2 rows of gathering thread, to do this lower the thread tension as much as possible and set your machine to wide stitches. Make a first seam 0.4 mm from the edge all along your waist, and leave the thread a little long before cutting it at the end of the seam. Do the same 0.8 mm from the edge.

Place your skirt on one of the sides of your bust right side against right side, and start by pinning the remarkable points (the middle front and back, the side seams of the bust which correspond to the side seam of the skirt). Gently pull on the 2 ends of the thread, your fabric will gather along the thread. Distribute your gathers harmoniously over the entire length and pin.
Sew your skirt to your bust, taking care not to crush your gathers ( make sure you have put your machine back on the normal tension and stitch length settings ). Overlock your seam.

Your garment now looks like a sleeveless blouse with a lined bust, fabric and lining joined by the neckline and waist. Come and build your fabric and lining armholes together, wrong side to wrong side, by making a stitch inside the seam allowance (0.5 cm). Joining the armholes will make it easier for you to assemble the sleeve.

Close your sleeve by making the side seam right side against right side. Overlock.

Attach your sleeve to your garment by pinning right sides together (use your mounting notches carefully, 2 notches in front, 1 notch in the back, and 1 notch for the sleeve head that meets the shoulder seam). Overlock your seam.