Jacquard madness!

At Maison Fauve, the arrival of fabrics was a small revolution. And from the second season, I integrated into our fabric collections a fabric that I have a real passion for: jacquard fabric . It was a magnificent duo of navy blue and iced brown jacquard, woven in France, that we had chosen to offer you for end-of-year sewing.

Jacquard fabric and back neckline detail Mia dress by Maison Fauve

I associate jacquard with something precious, linked to a certain know-how, and clothes sewn in jacquard always have a look that will immediately be remarkable. I admit to having a little weakness for jacquards highlighted with lurex , but the play of volume, like quilting , different types of associated thread, or even embroidery effects are also very attractive :)

A beautiful jacquard jacket, or even a set, really looks great!

Mimosa jacket and Cosmopolitan jumpsuit in Fauve Party jacquard

Metropolis Jacket in Pastel Jacquard

Ispahan jacket in Twist jacquard by Maison Fauve

Detail of the Brooklyn pants in Fauve Party jacquard

What is jacquard?

It is a weave and not a material, with threads that can vary in composition as well as in color. It is this alternation of threads and the specific weave that will create a pattern , unlike printed warp and weft fabrics. The play of weaving and  the multiplication of different types of threads (cotton, silk, viscose, ribbon insertion, lurex, wool) will give a fabric that is more or less sophisticated in its construction. On light jacquards for example, the pattern appears in the alternation between shiny threads and matt threads . For heavier jacquards, we can have different materials, and also different weaves. We will also be able to see additional effects, by adding wadding to play on the volume. The color is not obtained after weaving, but upstream: it is the threads that are dyed before passing on the loom.

Historically, jacquard production reached its peak in France in the Lyon basin (where many Maison Fauve jacquards are produced ;) ) thanks to Joseph Marie Charles (known as Jacquard) who developed the first Jacquard loom in 1801, thus making its industrialization possible. The jacquard loom works using punched cards that guide the hooks that lift the warp threads, thus making it possible to create patterns.

How to sew jacquard?

Depending on the material and weight of your fabric, recommendations may vary. But here are some recommended precautions before sewing your jacquard fabric:

How to properly prepare your jacquard fabric before sewing

• Overlock the edges of the width upon receipt of your fabric and before washing it if it is necessary to decate it. Indeed, the jacquard weave will lead to a risk of fraying of the cut edges, weakening your precious coupon.

• Overlock your pieces before sewing: this injunction is not systematic, and it particularly concerns weaves with large diameter and rather loose threads. To consider this point, cut a sample and try to undo the threads with your finger. If the threads remain in your hands, an overlocker is essential, at the risk of seeing your work fray and get damaged quickly.

• For some projects, especially the Kika playsuit , it is recommended to iron-on the neckline pieces. Jacquard irons on without any problem, and the choice of iron-on will have to be adapted according to your project: we iron-on the bottom of the jacket, the collars or the cuffs more strongly than a bustier for example. We generally use Vlieseline G700 for the parts that require support, and Vlieseline G785 for the parts that we want to keep a certain flexibility.

Always iron your fabric well

The appearance of the jacquard will change after a machine wash, the fibers will have worked during washing and drying. Wash your fabrics by scrupulously respecting the cycle instructions, and dry them flat (do not let them stagnate in the drum after washing). Careful ironing (following the temperature recommendations) will restore your jacquard fabric's suppleness and appearance.

Choice of needles

It will depend a lot on the fabric. A very thick and densely woven jacquard requires universal needles of 80 or 90. A light jacquard like our viscose jacquards, more delicate but also finer and more flexible, are sewn with microtex needles to avoid pulling threads.

How do I finish my seams?

If you have already overlocked your pieces, you can leave them as they are. If you want more elaborate finishes, you can place a bias binding on the seam allowance before assembling your pieces (we explain the principle in this video tutorial ). This second solution will be preferred if you want to sew a jacquard jacket without adding a lining. We also explain it in this other video with the example of the Métropolis jacket ( sewing Métropolis without lining ).

Choosing the right book

What to sew in your precious jacquard coupon? Again, it all depends on the material!

Heavy jacquards

Heavy jacquards lend themselves well to jackets, windbreakers, but also to accessories (passion banane in pretty jacquard) or furnishings (a beautiful hand-sewn jacquard cushion will look amazing!).

Freestyle jacket sewing pattern in our Swoop jacquard fabric

Pilar jacket in Swoop jacquard by Maison Fauve

Medium weight jacquards

A medium-weight jacquard will allow you to sew jackets but also shorts, skirts, provided you choose a pattern with a clean cut. Ruffles, numerous gathers will be prohibited. But a beautiful Kika jumpsuit , or a set of grand Bain shorts and Métropolis jacket will have a great look!

Our range of tweed-style jacquard will be magnificent for the summer in a palette of tangy colors. Woven in France , they are easy to work with, and perfect for many projects. Discover them on the Mimosa blazer and the Cosmopolitan playsuit/dress . You can also sew a jacket, a pretty short jacket, or shorts in this fabric.

Fauve Party Jacquard Mimosa Jacket

Cosmopolitan playsuit and Métropolis jacket detail in Pastel jacquard

Mimosa blazer and Cosmopolitan jumpsuit inSorbet tweed and Sunrise tweed

Botanica Ecru jacquard fabric and Dandelion jacket sewing pattern

Dandelion jacket sewing pattern and Botanica jacquard fabric Ink Blue

Loop Ink Jacquard Fabric

Métropolis jacket and Grand Bain shorts in Loop jacquard by Maison Fauve

Kika Twist Jacquard Playsuit by Maison Fauve

Fine and light jacquards

They are perfect for all works that require fine and supple fabrics, they will often play on the shine of the threads, thus creating patterns that alternate between matte and shiny. Here the use of the reverse or the right side will depend on your desires, and you can choose to favor the sophisticated satin or the side whose muted color reveals an elegant pattern. The monochrome is thus foiled, and the weave makes the color shimmer. Perfectly opaque, you can sew dresses, twirling skirts, blouses, even lingerie pieces or little pajamas or nighties in this fabric. Find this material in the range of Lily viscose jacquards , with delicate floral patterns, as well as the Léo jacquards .

The Lily range of viscose jacquards

Lily Mahogany Jacquard Bellini Top

Bellini Blouse in Lily Jacquard Sulphur Yellow

Cuba Libre dress and Bellini blouse in Golden Hour jacquard

Paola top and Blush top in Léo viscose jacquard by Maison Fauve

Léo jacquard deckchair dress by Maison Fauve

We also offer you jacquard viscose voiles : woven in France, they are very soft, with a play of colored woven bands. Easy to sew, they will be perfect for sewing blouses and tops like the Bellini pattern or the Spritz tank top .

Sunrise viscose veil

Spritz tank top in Sorbet viscose voile and detail of the Bellini blouse in Sunrise viscose voile

Jacquard is an exceptional fabric that will allow you to sew a unique and particularly elaborate wardrobe. You will be able to let your creativity speak for itself, for sewing that will leave those around you speechless. Even the most refined of clothes takes on another dimension in jacquard, right?!

Have a nice day and happy sewing!

Manhattan jacket in Fauve Party jacquard