About sewing patterns

About Fabrics

Each collection launch is a festive moment, I love feeling your emulation, your enthusiasm when discovering the patterns and fabrics. But I also know that many of you want to receive more information about the new products. So I have compiled here everything that seems relevant to me to best support you in your choices or clarify certain points. This FAQ will answer the most frequently asked questions, whether about our sewing patterns or our fabrics. It focuses on the Le Rivage collection but some points can also have a more global scope. Let's go!

About sewing patterns

I'm not an expert in sewing, but I've fallen for several intermediate level patterns. Do you think I can make them?

All our sewing patterns have an illustrated booklet, as well as a very detailed step-by-step video accessible for free in the Tutorials section of our site as well as on our YouTube channel (it is not necessary to buy the pattern to view our videos). You can already watch our videos to determine the difficulty and the technical points covered. In addition, here is how I determine the technical level of a pattern:

  • The number of pieces: in fact, the more pieces a pattern has, the greater the risk of error, from the moment the pattern is transferred to the fabric (the risks of stretching, shifting, or transferring the pieces incorrectly are multiplied)
  • The technical points covered: fitting sleeves, a collar, installing an invisible zip are techniques that directly classify the pattern as an intermediate level. Assembling a lining on a coat is not necessarily complicated, especially since we detail this step well and simplify it as much as possible from the design of the patterns. It is therefore not necessarily a criterion that will move the pattern to an advanced level. Piped pockets, installing a fly or tear-proof slits for example are very technical steps.
  • The choice of fabric: if a slightly technical model catches your eye but you doubt your ability to sew it, you can perhaps still get started provided you choose a fabric that is easy to sew. Avoid fabrics that slip or lose their shape easily. A pretty cotton or viscose poplin will allow you to sew many projects, for a pretty result, and without breaking out in a cold sweat. In addition, the advice to "sew a toile", like a draft of the garment will be even more relevant: you will have discovered the pattern and the techniques covered for the first time, before embarking on your beautiful fabric.

Will the patterns from the Le Rivage collection also be available in PDF?

The new collections are only offered in pretty pouches embellished with the exclusive pattern of the collection. We will not be offering the Le Rivage patterns in PDF format for the moment. In order to know how we work with the PDF format you can watch this video available on our Youtube channel.

Can I lengthen the Tempête blouse or the Déferlante blouse into a dress?

You can easily lengthen the beautiful Tempête blouse to sew a dress with a draped collar by following the advice I give you in the video "sewing the Cicadella blouse into a dress". You will get a short, trapeze dress. If you want a longer dress, extend it by the desired length.
As for the Déferlante blouse/shirt, the pleats and the button placket option mean that you will have to think carefully about the desired ease. Use the same tutorial, but remember to go through a toile to validate your modifications.

Can I sew a blouse version of the Peninsula dress or modify its length?

The Peninsula dress pattern is supported by waist darts on the front and back bust. To transform it into a blouse, several modifications are required (releasing the darts, lengthening the sides to lower the bottom of the garment to obtain a blouse, possibly adding ease on the small hips). Transforming the pattern into a blouse will therefore require a little work and the passage through a toile.
You can, however, easily shorten the dress if you want a model that is not mid-calf but above/below the knee.

Can I lengthen the Reef pants so they sit below the ankle?

No problem, especially since the pattern includes shorten/lengthen lines. You can adapt the Récif pants to your height or your desires.

Can I sew Reef without a reverse?

The pattern has specific instructions on the bottom of the legs on where to place the cuff. You can use these lines to remove the cuff. I'll say in passing that it would be a shame not to make the cuff, it has been very well "thought out" to be very stable, and it is a bit "the salt" of the model. But it is your creation, you do as you wish!

Can I lengthen the Cliff coat to make it a 3/4 or long coat?

The cut of the Cliff pattern is a bit ball, this is allowed thanks to the pleats located at the bottom of the back and its wide belt which is already low (under the buttocks). Everything is of course possible in sewing, but it is a major transformation that you will have to make. If you prefer this type of longer coats, and you are not very experienced in pattern transformations, I recommend the Tigris, Tsar, Pam or Ray sewing patterns.

I am over 1m65 tall, can I adapt the patterns to my height?

Our patterns are developed for a height of 1m65 in size 36. The grading process means that when you go up in sizes, the garment also lengthens a little. We provide you with a finished garment measurement table in the pattern brochure to validate the length. On our shooting, Vanina wears the clothes in size 52, she is 1m70 tall, and we did not make any special adjustments.
Also, the patterns have lines for shortening/lengthening. If this is not the case on some pieces, it is because they are simply lengthened at the bottom. I recommend that you add to the recommended fabric yardage x2 the length you want to add to your garment: for example, if you want to lengthen your blouse by 5 cm, add 10 cm to the amount of fabric indicated according to your size.
If necessary, do not hesitate to download our “free little guide to tailor-made sewing” to adapt the patterns to your body shape.

I would like to sew a Tempête blouse, a Déferlante blouse or a Péninsule dress in your pretty lace, how do I double the patterns ?

All the garments sewn in lace and presented in our visuals are not lined. For the tops, I find that our laces have few openworks and with a bra that does not "cut" this does not cause any problem. If you still want to line your clothes, I will not be able to guide you on a "real" lining for these patterns: the construction of each one includes pleats, darts and/or yokes that do not make it easy to simply describe how to line them correctly. A specific lining pattern would be required.
But we have already considered this scenario for several seasons: we offer you on our site the pattern of the Blush camisole/dress base that can slip under all your sewing. In addition, we also have in the fabric section of the site a whole range of cotton voile in colors matching our lace fabrics.

About Fabrics

I love the new Panache print, but does the pattern make sense?

No, you can place your pieces upside down if you wish, the Panache viscose poplin has no direction or connection to manage.

What sewing thread/buttons do you recommend for your prints?

We have listed on each product sheet the bobbins and button colors compatible with our prints. All you have to do is choose which ones will be your favorites.

How much fabric do I need to sew my blouse/dress/coat/pants etc.?

All fabric quantities and supplies needed for sewing are listed by grading size on the product sheet for each fabric. These values ​​are given for a width of 140 cm. These yardages will be adapted for all the fabrics that we offer in the collection.

And for the Coquillage lace, given that the direction of the embroidery is not that of the width, how do I adapt my footage?

We have prepared cutting plans and fabric consumption for you in case this changes:

- for the Déferlante blouse, the fabric consumption and the placement of the pieces will be identical to what is indicated on the product sheet and the brochure, from 34 to 44.

From 46 to 52, the information is as follows (cutting plans and footage).

- for the Storm blouse, fabric consumption and piece placement will be identical to what is indicated on the product sheet and brochure, from 34 to 48.

For sizes 50-52, the information is as follows (cutting plan and footage).

Are your dress fabrics like twill or viscose poplin opaque or do they need to be lined?

Our viscose twill weighs 200g/m2, it is very opaque. Our viscose poplins also do not require lining, especially since the colors of the season's pattern are rather dark or very opaque. No need to line your dresses sewn in these fabrics.

And what about lace?

If you don't want the lace to reveal your skin, we offer a full range of cotton voiles in matching colors. And I'll detail the question of lining in one of the requests mentioned above.

On certain fabrics such as wools, cotton voiles, laces, gabardines or plain twills, how can you tell the wrong side from the right side?

Start by observing your coupon: on some fabrics the selvedges (edges of the width) have small holes which are due to the manufacturing process. Observe and touch these holes, on the reverse side they will be slightly marked and rather smooth and on the right side they will be more marked, as if in relief and rough. This advice will be relevant in particular for cotton twills and voiles.
For Botanica and Coquillage laces, the right side has small embroidered threads which highlight the “patterns” of the lace.
For gabardines and twills, the weave of your fabric is formed by very characteristic diagonals that go in the same direction. When the diagonals go down and to the right, you are on the right side. In addition, the reverse side of these fabrics does not have such a clear diagonal line.
Regarding wools, it will be up to you, one side is often a little more "plush" and the other more "shiny". I tend to prefer the shiny side on the right side of the garment.
In any case, you can choose the side you want for all these fabrics, this will have no impact on your sewing.