Sewing tutorial: sew the Volata lace blouse

The Volata blouse: your couture favorite!

There's poetry in the air... The VOLATA blouse is your favorite from the new Avventura collection. An accessible pattern in terms of sewing level, it has few pieces and reinvents itself with the fabrics. A versatile model thanks to its clean cut, it nevertheless stands out thanks to details that define the model at first glance:

  • An original swallow-wing neckline on the front and back, which gives the model its personality,

  • A soft line constructed with chest darts for easy chest adjustment,

  • An easy-to-wear everyday cut that will also be very elegant for an evening or event depending on the choice of fabric.

Don't forget to scroll to the bottom for all the product links and helpful tips!

Should I line my lace clothes or not? How should I do it?

During the presentation of the new collection, we sewed the Volata blouse in the new colors of Daphné lace offered in the collection: in ultra chic Plum and in deep Scarab green.
Openwork or beautifully embroidered fabrics give hand-sewn clothing an extra touch of sophistication and an undeniable "wow wow wow" effect. But using this type of fabric sometimes comes with questions:

  • Should I line my garment?

It all depends on the importance of the openwork and your sensitivity to transparency. At Maison Fauve, we offer several lace designs. Botanica lace or Coquillage lace are laces with discreet openwork, it is not necessarily necessary to line your blouses. Alhambra lace or Daphné lace are more openwork, and while we do not always present garments sewn in these fabrics with a lining, this may be necessary if you do not appreciate transparency too much, for a blouse or a dress.
For all our laces we offer cotton voiles in coordinated colors.

  • Is the fabric difficult to sew?

All our laces are made from a cotton/polyamide base. They are non-stretchy, do not warp or stretch when sewn. These fabrics are easy to sew, and we offer many haberdashery items on our website to help you mark fabrics (heat-erasable/chalk pencils, etc.).
The sewing thread used is the same as for our other fabrics, and we recommend small diameter universal needles (70 or 80) for sewing these fabrics.

  • How to manage the finishes at the different stages of sewing?

Lace sometimes requires small changes when sewing. The use of iron-on adhesive is not recommended because it will show through. You can then either not iron on your pieces, or create an interlining to reinforce, for example, a cuff or a collar (this is the case for the cuff of the Cicadella blouse, and we show you how to do this in the tutorial dedicated to the pattern).

To finish the seams of the Volata blouse, you have the choice of overlocking the seam allowances (which we do regularly without any impact on the longevity of the sewn garments). You can also finish your seams by adding bias or even making French seams . This type of finishing is regularly described in our assembly ranges and requires adapting the seam allowances by setting them at 1.5 cm if the pattern does not provide for it.

Some patterns already include specific sewing instructions for fabrics such as lace, such as the Maison Fauve Cicadella pattern, the Belle Épine top, the Daïquiri blouse/dress, and the Spritz tank top duo . These models include a range of suitable assembly instructions.

How to line the Volata blouse?

It's a simple adaptation to make, especially since we only lined the bust of the Volata blouse:

  • Take the main pattern pieces (front 1 and back 2), but do not use the front and back neckline pieces (3 and 4). No need to cut iron-on.

  • Cut pieces 1 and 2 from your lining fabric: a fine cotton voile, a light poplin or a fluid viscose lining will be perfectly suited (on our versions these are cotton sails). Find the cutting edge of the lining below.

  • Prepare the front lining as directed for the main fabric by sewing the bust darts. Overcast the center front and back of the main fabric and lining pieces. Join the lining and main fabric together at the neckline on the front and back as directed in the neckline edge sewing step.

    Place the right and left front busts edge to edge, ED/ED, with the lining unfolded. Pin from the bottom of the lining pieces, through the lowest stitch on the neckline, then continue along the center front to the bottom of the bust pieces. Sew 1 cm from the edge, being careful not to create a crease when moving from the lining to the bust.

    Iron, opening the seam allowances, then press the lining to the wrong side of the bust and press well. We did not stitch around the neckline as described for the cleanliness, so there is no need to stabilize the lining in this way.

  • Assembly of the front and back busts:

    Spread the linings at the front and back shoulders. Pin the front and back busts together by the ED/ED shoulders, from the lining shoulders to the point of the main fabric shoulder. Sew 1 cm from the edge, taking care not to create a crease when moving from the lining to the main fabric.

  • Side closure:

    Unfold the lining and pin the front and back busts together by the ED/ED sides. Do the same for the lining busts. Sew 1 cm from the edge from the armhole to the bottom of the blouse, and repeat these seams on the lining. Overcast the seam allowances and press them towards the back. Then place the lining on the wrong side of the bust and iron well. Secure the armholes Main fabric/Lining with a seam 0.5 cm from the edge, then continue the assembly steps, considering your bust T + D as a single element.

  • Bottom hem: Leave the lining loose at the bottom of the blouse so that it follows the movements of the garment without weighing it down. Hem the bottom of the garment and the bottom of the lining separately.

The sewing steps should be compared to those described in the brochure and the video sewing tutorial .

A very Fauve-style Volata

For this precious version of Volata, I chose our new Daphne lace. The material is incredible, the delicacy of the embroidered floral motifs is simply sublime and adds even more to the poetry of the beautiful Volata.

Daphné's wide range of colors allows you to sew a blouse that will match your other clothes, especially when combined with other Maison Fauve fabrics. Find Daphné in Plum, Beetle Green, Moss Green, white, and Lemonade Yellow. The fabric's good hold means you don't need to use iron-on adhesive without it affecting the quality of the garment.

We look forward to seeing your dubbed versions of Volata!


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