How to lengthen/shorten a sleeve length

Changing the sleeve length allows you to adjust it perfectly to your own body shape or to create new lengths when a pattern only has one version.

Basic material to perform a transformation
To transform a pattern, it is advisable to have:

• Adhesive tape

• A parrot rule

• A square

• A graduated ruler

• A support sheet

• A pair of paper scissors

• A fine-tipped pencil/criterion

Adjusting the length to your body shape

This technique does not require a very large modification. Since the goal is to rectify a part for comfort, it is normally not necessary to add or subtract a very large value. 

For more details on methods A and B discussed below, refer to the article entitled "Basic techniques for shortening or lengthening a pattern."

Defining the transformation value

The basic height used at Maison Fauve is 1m65.
For a height of 1m70, it will be necessary to lengthen the sleeves by +1.5 cm.
Beyond 1m70, the sleeves will need to be lengthened by +3 cm.
Below 1m70, the sleeves will need to be shortened by -1 cm.

Method A : Cut the pattern pieces in 2 and add/subtract the desired amount between the different parts.

This method is the most recommended so as not to modify the cut of the sleeve.

• Draw an axis perpendicular to the straight grain on the sleeve. Place it anywhere between the hem line and the underarm line.

  Key point:  If the sleeve has a fancy cut, it is important to check that the proportions of the volumes are still respected. Place the transformation axis in accordance with the model.

• Cut on the line, then spread the pieces apart to lengthen the pattern or overlap the pieces to shorten the pattern.

Case of a classic straight sleeve
Maia dress

Case of a fancy sleeve
Granite Sweat

Case of a sleeve with cutout
Sonia dress

Method B : Modify the bottom of the pieces in line with the existing outline.

Depending on the cut of the sleeve (straight, flared, fancy) and the desired transformation, it will be possible or not to modify the piece from the bottom, in the continuity of the already existing outline. It will therefore depend on the case.

For more details on this method, refer to the article entitled "Basic techniques for shortening or lengthening a pattern."

Shorten/lengthen a sleeve to get another version.

This technique allows you to transform a short sleeve into a long sleeve and vice versa. It is also possible to opt for a ¾ length. This transformation is mainly applied to classic straight-cut sleeves, without fancy elements.

• Visually define the new sleeve length on the arm, then measure the height from the rounding of the shoulder to the virtual line defined previously.
  On the sleeve pattern, draw an axis connecting the 2 underarm points (from left to right). Normally this new axis should be perpendicular to the straight grain. Measure this line and mark a reference in its center. From this new point, draw a vertical axis over the entire height of the sleeve, remaining parallel to the straight grain and perpendicular to the underarm line. This axis will serve as a reference so as not to distort the structure of the sleeve.

  

• Transfer the desired length of the new sleeve along the vertical axis. The starting point is at the top of the sleeve head. The ending point corresponds to the hem of the new sleeve.

  In the case of a long sleeve transformation, the vertical axis must be extended beyond the basic outline.

• Draw the new hem line, always remaining parallel to the underarm line and perpendicular to the straight grain.

  

For a short sleeve

The hem line begins and ends at the intersection with the side lines of the base sleeve.

For a long sleeve

• The width of the sleeve at the bottom must be defined in advance by measuring the wrist with ease. Check that the hand can pass through, otherwise increase the ease.

• Divide the measurement obtained in 2 and transfer it on either side of the vertical axis, at the hem.

• Trace the sides of the sleeve from the underarm points down.